A Conversation With Damien O'Donnell, Chef And Partner At Bostwick's On the Harbor

By Kathryn G. Menu

The longtime executive chef and co-owner of Harbor Bistro talks about moving down the harbor in his new role as chef and partner at Bostwick’s on the Harbor.

The news just recently broke that you will be joining the team at Bostwick’s, not far from Harbor Bistro, the restaurant you owned and operated with your wife, Nicole. How does it feel to be returning to 3 Mile Harbor this season?

First and foremost, I have always thought it would be an awesome experience to work with Kevin [Boles] and Chris [Eggert] from Bostwick’s. They run a great business and they have been very successful with what they do, so for me, the transition of moving just up the street feels natural. Chris and I seem to have a similar philosophy on food and service and keeping things local in our community, so it was quite the pleasure when I got the call from Chris when he asked me if I would be interested in partnering with them up on the harbor. It was just a perfect invitation, and I could not be more happy to be able to continue to do what we’ve been doing at Harbor Bistro for the last 16 years and merge our ideas together down at Gann Road.

After being open for 16 years, your family announced Harbor Bistro — a successful and popular restaurant for locals and visitors alike — would not reopen in 2022. That had to be a tough moment as a chef, as a family man and local business owner. A lot of locally owned restaurants have had to shutter, despite success, because of the high cost of doing business and real estate. What do you think the future holds for locally owned restaurants on the East End?

You know, it was a real pleasure to be there, and it was a building block for us. We grew a family during that time — that time was a very impactful experience for us. We made a point to be there for our locals and we did draw a seasonal crowd as well, which was a great balance for us. It is what helped us remain successful because we had a local community supporting us in the fall and in the spring and we supported them, through community fundraisers we hosted, or gift certificates and the things we did to support local organizations. That is what we are going to continue to look to do up at Bostwick’s and keep the mentality of keeping the local community first and foremost in our minds.

In terms of the what the future holds, it is a little scary to see what’s happening. Would my kids be able to start up and operate a business or a restaurant out here the way things are right now? I don’t think that would even be a possibility. A lot of locals are going to be priced out of business.

How did your 16 years at Harbor Bistro shape you as a chef and the way you look at food on the East End?

In a way, I grew up as a chef. I appreciate and understand the impact of being able to go to the docks and meet and get to know local fishermen and farmers, shake their hands, and learn about their products. When I first got here, I lacked that a bit, but through the years it became second nature and is a big part of how I approach food today.

How would you describe your style of cooking? Where are your priorities as a chef?

You want to put quality on the plate no matter what. You want to impact your guest with a dish that has flavor, color and texture and at this point in my career I am finding ways to do that without having to put foie gras or the most expensive items on the menu. You must evolve and find ways to create dishes that are cost effective but still deliver on quality. It takes a lot in terms of getting out there and trying to find what maybe isn’t in the highest demand, where the price point might be a little lower, but where you can still have a product that can turn into beautiful dish. As chefs we have always had to put dishes together with food costs in mind, but that challenge is even bigger now with the rising cost of food. So you simplify your menu, go with a shorter menu, but find items that you can still deliver a high quality product with and still keep your margins profitable.

I almost feel like the COVID-19 pandemic was a test run for what chefs are dealing with in terms of the rising cost of food and inflation. Everyone had to look at their business through a new lens and respond quickly during the pandemic. Did it help you going into this new season with these new challenges?

COVID-19 definitely had a large impact on how we develop menus. We were still doing high volume throughout the pandemic at Harbor Bistro, even when we were just doing takeout, but my whole menu changed and we incorporated things like tacos and burritos. It did change the look of my menu but at the same time I could deliver a good taco and a good burrito and I was able to put a $17 or $18 item on the menu instead of a $50 dish at a time where things were tough. It was comforting for a lot of our locals to know they could still go out and eat or get high quality takeout and that has had an impression on my menu even in this coming season. It’s focused on quality items and finding ways to be efficient.

Your duck burrito certainly saw me through many nights during the pandemic.

You will see that on the menu at Bostwick’s.

At Harbor Bistro, you developed several signature dishes … ribs … cough, cough. Can we expect to see some of those items at Bostwick’s this summer?

That is the plan and Chris and I have been collaborating on the menu. It will have influences from Harbor Bistro but will very much remain Bostwick’s, which has been such a success because of the food they bring to the table. But you will see some of the mainstays like our ribs, the tuna poke, the calamari, our pistachio-crusted fish, the Korean duck burrito — there will be a handful of regular menu items that people will recognize from Harbor Bistro and in addition I will run specials in the style of what we did up there, and that will change night to night.

What are some other dishes you hope to work on this summer?

I am excited, throughout the season, to work with local fishermen, especially Wes Peterson out in Montauk. We are looking at fish a lot of people may not be too familiar with, like skate, which we want to introduce to our local clientele and show them this is something you can make a quality plate from. I am planning on using a lot of tilefish, one of the most prevalent fish out here and quite underrated. It’s such a good fish and eats so delicate and sweet. For me, it is one of my favorite fish so you will be seeing a lot of that.

You started out in this business as a teen prepping deli salads in your hometown. What drew you into this business?

I enjoyed working on my feet. I was never the kid who was comfortable sitting at the classroom desk. When it came to working, I just found a natural attraction to it, especially being able to keep my hands and feet in motion. You have to constantly use your brain and think on your feet, find ways to improve your skills. From the age of 15, I was always striving to be better than the next person and better than I was the day before. That type of mentality has stayed with me — I am always striving to improve my game wherever I can.

You have three daughters — Ryleigh, Kerri and Ashlyn. Do they show any interest in entering the family business?

My older girls have already bussed tables and hosted for us at Harbor Bistro. Honestly, I think everyone should spend a year or two in the restaurant business no matter who you are. It is a great eye opener and a great way to learn how to work fast and efficiently. I know they have other plans, but there is nothing wrong with having the restaurant business to fall back on. I don’t see any of them taking a lead as a restaurateur, but you never know what the future holds.

Chefs on the East End seem particularly bonded. What has been the response to the news of your new role as chef and partner at Bostwick’s on the Harbor?

The feedback has been really positive. I think people are excited because you are taking two restaurant staples that have been working around similar ideas and merging them together. There is nothing but support, and it’s going to be an awesome 2022.

You have been enjoying a bit of a deserved break this off-season. What have you been cooking at home?

I keep it simple at home. I am a big advocate for that. I love the classics. I grew up in a house where my mom, Bernadette, was cooking chicken Parmesan and chicken cacciatore or even a simple pot roast. And it seems to me, when I am at home, I make those same kinds of choices. With the kids, they will go outside the box here and there, but they also like to have simple foods. So I am making chicken Milanese, I’m grilling pork chops. My wife loves meatloaf. I will make lasagna. I don’t do a lot of Italian food in the restaurants, so I make up for that at home where my family shares a meal.